Food: September 2007 Archives

 

September 7, 2007

Harold McGee has an interesting article about the use of gelatin filtering to prepare unusual consommes:
A blog called Ideas in Food (ideasinfood.typepad.com), written by two chefs, H. Alexander Talbot and Aki Kamozawa, is sprinkled with suggestions for an impressive variety of gelatin-clarified consommes including Parmesan and Roquefort, foie gras, olive oil, caramelized banana, ranch dressing, butter pecan, kimchi, pumpernickel and baked potato "with all the fixings." Mr. Talbot likes to keep consommes handy in the freezer, like one he brews from brown butter, soy sauce and Tabasco.

"They're great with seafood, asparagus -- anyplace you would want those flavors without all the fat," he wrote in an e-mail message. "We also use consommes as brines and braising mediums. Artichokes cooked in horseradish consomme are remarkable."

...

Mr. Iuzzini also uses the technique to make an even more surprising dish for his chocolate course. He makes separate "stocks" of dark and white chocolate by cooking them in water, then clarifies them into fat-free liquids, one brown and one colorless. He then adds sugars and xanthan gum, a thickener, to give the two liquids different densities and a slight cohesiveness. This allows him to build a two-story drink, a layer of cold white chocolate consomme riding on a base of hot dark chocolate consomme.

There seem like a lot of possibilities here. I wonder if you could make a Harold Washington consomme.