One of the gyms I climb at has this
article up on the
wall:
Todd Skinner's hands were cut up and he was tired after a hard day of
climbing, but he was a happy man standing high above Yosemite Valley
on what is known as Leaning Tower.
...
They talked about their plans for the next day, then Skinner began
rappelling down from a ledge part way up the 2,000-foot face. Five
minutes later, he was dead.
Skinner, a 47-year-old former rodeo cowboy and world-renowned rock
climber, fell more than 500 feet to his death Monday after the nylon
loop used to attach the climbing rope to his harness broke. The
accident has sent shock waves through the climbing community, where
Skinner's outgoing nature was almost as legendary as his courage and
skill on some of the world's most dangerous rock faces.
...
The part that broke, called the belay loop, is designed to be the
strongest part of the climbing harness, but Hewett, 34, said Skinner's
harness was old.
"It was actually very worn," Hewett said. "I'd noted it a few days
before, and he was aware it was something to be concerned about."
Friends of Skinner said he had ordered several new harnesses but they
hadn't yet arrived in the mail.
On Monday's climb, Hewett said the belay loop snapped while Skinner
was hanging in midair underneath an overhanging ledge.
For those who don't climb, a little explanation may be in order.
Your basic climbing setup is that you've got two guys, one
climbing and one belaying. They're both wearing harnesses
and are attached to each other by a safety rope. The idea here
is that the belayer leaves a relatively small amount of slack
in the rope so that if the climber falls, he only falls a short
distance.
The climber typically has the rope tied directly onto his harness,
since it's a fixed point. Your classic harness is just a waist
belt with some leg loops and you tie in through both of them.
Simple.
However, since the distance between
the climber and the belayer keeps changing, the connection at
the belayer's end is more complicated. The rope is threaded
through a belay device which is a gizmo that lets the
belayer apply a lot of friction to the rope without much force.
The idea here is that while the climber is climbing the belayer
can adjust the length of the rope but of the climber falls
the belayer can lock the rope.
The belay device and the safety rope are attached to the belayer's harness
by a carabiner (a metal ring with a gate one one side to let
you open and close it). For a variety of reasons, people are concerned
about having the carabiner through the waist belt and the leg
loops (a lot of people argue that this cross-loads the carabiner
thus increasing the chance of failure--this isn't an issue for the
climber because rope is flexible). In order to avoid this,
most modern harnesses have a belay loop. This is just a
sewn nylon (or spectralink) loop that goes through the waist belt and leg loops (right
where the rope would go). You clip the carabiner for the belay device
into the belay loop. In the picture below, the belay loop is the green
thing.
If the climber falls, you suddenly have a lot of force on the rope
connecting the climber and the belayer. This force is on the
climber's harness at the tie in point and on the belayer's harness
at the belay loop--and of course on the waist and leg loops because
the belay loop goes through those. Thus, the belay loop creates
an additional point of failure, but this typically isn't a problem
because they're enormously strong--Black Diamond rates theirs at
15 kN (3372 lbs).
What appears to have happened in this case
(see this article) is that Skinner had been using
a daisy chain—more webbing—through his belay loop
and that the rubbing of the two pieces of webbing had abraded
the belay loop. This can also happen if you tie in via your
belay loop, which is why it's recommended that you tie in
directly through the waist and leg loops, which have abrasion
resistant material on the outside, which the belay loop does
not. Note that this isn't an issue with belaying since the
carabiner causes less abrasion of the belay loop.
One thing that's weird here is that belay loops are massively overbuilt.
According to the article I pointed to above, even if you remove
90% of the material in a BD belay loop, the breaking strength
is 777 pounds. If you're rapelling, or hanging as this article
suggests, the total force is merely your own body weight
and most rock climbers weigh far less than 700 lbs. Either
the belay loop was truly damaged, which is something you
would expect to be so obvious that you wouldn't use it at all
or we need to account for some other source of failure.
One more observation: as I said earlier you attach the belay
device through your belay loop and the force of the fall is
transmitted to the belay loop through the belay device. A fall
from a reasonable height will load the belay loop substantially
more than just the body weight of the climber. Given that Skinner
and Hewett were at the top of the climb, it seems likely that
Skinner was belaying off that same loop, a practice that
would have left even less margin of error than we now know
was already inadequate.